Notes On Napkins

Sunday, May 19, 2013

Latest from Dowd On Drinks

• Youngest female brewery owner on Golden Road

• New Bacardi ad revives the history of the Cuba Libre

• France takes honors in prestigious European wine test

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

'Restaurant Impossible' has habit of helping wrong people

Robert Irvine talks to Smitty's owners Gus and Evi Gialelis.

Channel surfing on a rainy Sunday afternoon, I came across a recent episode of "Restaurant Impossible," the Food Network's business makeover series.

Being a restaurant aficionado and a longtime writer on and critic of the industry, I like the idea of the makeover series despite the over-hyped drama of host Robert Irvine.

But, I have a growing complaint with the philosophy behind the show. Irvine, a tough but empathetic guy on camera, has a habit of saying, as he did with this particular episode, he and his crew would do their best because the beleaguered owners "deserve to have their business succeed." Gordon Ramsey often displays the same attitude on his "Kitchen Nightmares" makeover series.

Well, in many cases, they deserve no such thing. In this particular instance, as with so many, viewers are asked to root for owners who have done virtually no research into how to run a business, ignore health laws and common sense practices, place their customers in danger of food poisoning, take no pride in the cleanliness, decor and service of their establishments, surrender to the whims of bad employees, and have no one to blame for their own financial abyss.

What most of them deserve is (a) to be heavily fined by health officials, (b) to be given a swift kick in the ass for being so stupid, and (c) to go out of business.

Meanwhile, the show goes on.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Saturday, May 18, 2013

Hungry Fish taking a brief time out

TROY -- The Hungry Fish Cafe will take a brief time out.

Chef/owner Sarah Fish says she is shutting down from Sunday, May 26, through Tuesday, May 28, for an extended Memorial Day respite.

"We'll reopen normal hours Wednesday, May 29, at 8 a.m.," says Fish, who recently began a second job at Buckley Farms in Valley Falls, and cut back her restaurant hours. She says she has been working 12-14 hour days and needs a break.

The Hungry Fish Cafe is located at 615 Pawling Avenue. Phone: 874-4573.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Bacon Bacon restaurant closed by bacon smell

• From NBC Bay Area News

SAN FRANCISCO -- The bacon smell smelled so much of bacon that now, the bacon must go.

A restaurant called Bacon Bacon had to shut its doors after neighbors' complaints about the smell of bacon revealed a fatal permitting issue, according to the San Francisco Examiner.

Bacon Bacon, at 250A Frederick Street, closes its doors at the end of service Friday after its owner failed to negotiate with neighbors who took offense to the pork restaurant's smell. The smell led to the revelation that the restaurant lacked proper health permits.

The restaurant may be able to secure a permit, but the first time a hearing can be held is July. Neighbors claimed that the "porcine aroma" was overpowering and that grease was illegally disposed of in the sewers. Neighbors also say that they offered to buy the restaurant owner a new air filter, but he declined.

Owner Jim Angelus had been selling such dishes as fried chicken wrapped in bacon, bacon scones, a bacon bouquet (five bacon strips wrapped in paper), spicy belly fries with pork belly trimmings and peppers, chocolate-covered bacon and bacon caramel corn.

Angelus said he plans to restart his food truck once permitting is worked out.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

McDonald's drops more items to help speed service

Which one really is the fastest food?

McDonald's is being relentless about trimming its menu in an effort to eliminate low-profit items and speed up service.

A Bloomberg survey showed the fast-food chain coming in behind its chief competitors Wendy's and Burger King in speed of service.

As I reported last week, it is dropping its Angus Third Pounder, not long after it dropped Chicken Selects and the Fruit & Walnut Salad.

Now, it is eliminating more items from its 145-item menu -- the Caesar salad, Southern biscuits and McSkillet Burrito among them.

Since 2007, the chain has added about 60 items to the menu being offered in a cutthroat marketplace rife with competitors continually changing their menus.

McDonald's has also been offering more LTOs (limited time offerings) such as Fish McBites to support menu variety.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Cohoes Farmers' Market seeks more vendors

COHOES -- The Cohoes Farmers’ Market, which will open for its seventh season on Friday, June 7, is looking for more vendors.

The market operates in the large municipal lot at 185 Remsen Street Street. There will be an official ribbon cutting at 4 p.m. on opening day.

The market has an 18-week schedule, running every Friday, rain or shine, from 4 to 7 p.m. through October 4.

Among special events on the schedule are the annual Municipal Cook-off among local government officials, Strawberry Shortcake Night and the annual Corn Roast.

Vendor applications are available by contacting Diane at Harmony House Marketplace, 238-2232.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Dave & Buster's to open Aug. 31 in Crossgates

GUILDERLAND -- Youve seen the TV commercials for years. Beginning Saturday, August 31, you'll be able to sample the reality.

Crossgates Mall has announced that as opening day for the Dave & Buster's chain of restaurant/game arcades to make its Capital Region debut, which I originally wrote about back in November.

It will be the 63rd location for the chain and its seventh in New York State.

The menu includes such offerings as Philly cheesesteaks and pretzel dogs, salads, burgers, steaks, ribs, pastas, an under-600-calorie menu, plus a children's menu.

Drinkswise, D&B offers twice-daily happy hours, plus a late-night happy hour and a lineup of signature cocktails, a margarita list, plus domestic and imported beers.

And, gameswise, it offers billiards, shuffleboard and arcade games. Customers can accumulate tickets in the arcade and redeem them for anything from toys to high-tech gadgets.

Crossgates has no word yet on an opening day for Texas De Brazil, the chain restaurant offering Brazilian food with a Texas twist. The only indication so far is a "summer 2013" comment from the chain and an "opening soon" notes from the mall management.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Update: Albany Rail Yard 'officially' opens today

Update: The Albany Rail Yard will holds its "official" grand opening at 4 p.m. today (May 18) with free food and drinks specials. Incidentally, if you're wondering about the name of the establishment, its neighborhood once was home to the West Albany Rail Yard.

(Originally published 4/19/13.)

COLONIE -- The Albany Rail Yard opened at 3 o'clock today, just a warmup for its happy "hour" that runs from 4 to 7 p.m.

The new restaurant is located at 1118 Central Avenue, replacing Appletini's which closed in January. It is owned by Andy Kung, who purchased Appletini's last year.

The hearty menu has a wide variety of pub-style entrees -- chicken wings, strips and legs, pizzas, nachos, quesadillas, salads and the like.

Entrees include such dishes as potato and Andouille sausage bake for $9.95 (smokey Andouille sausage, roasted red potatoes, bell peppers and onions topped with Parmesan cheddar jack cheeses then baked); St. Louis style ribs, smoked and slow-cooked and served as a quarter, half or full rack ranging from $9.95 to $23.95 with slaw, corn bread and two choices from an extensive list of sides, plus a lineup of combo plates.

Desserts are from the local bakery Coccadotts Cake Shop.

Kitchen hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and to midnight Friday and Saturday, and noon to 9 p.m Sunday. Phone: 813-9359.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Friday, May 17, 2013

Some updates on a trio of new ventures

• The Grape and the Growler, 155 Wade Road, Latham: The new venture from Joe Schaefer and Pete Cusato is serving food for lunch delivery. The menu is here. The partners, who operated Savannah’s/The Dublin Underground in Albany until closing it last summer, are accepting orders starting at 9 a.m. Phone: 783-8000. When the G&G gets its liquor license, it will begin full service operations.

• Willow Marsh Farm, 343 Hop City Road, Ballston Spa: Owners Charles and Darlene Curtiss will open their new farm store on Saturday, selling locally produced items as well as beef, lamb, veal, dairy products, vegetables, compost and hay from the farm. Hours: 9 a.m., to 6 p.m. Monday and Wednesday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekends, closed Tuesdays. Saturday as well as locally sourced chicken, eggs and baked goods.

• The Hollow Bar & Kitchen, 79 North Pearl Street, Albany: This successor to The Bayou Café debuts its first menu today (May 17), put together by chef Henry Ciccone, a former partner in Capriccio Saratoga. The Hollow, named after the nearby Sheridan Hollow neighborhood, is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, dinner on Saturday and Monday. The owner is Mike Philip, former general manager of Jillian’s.

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.

Update: Owners confirm Hudson Falls restaurant closing

Update (5/16/13): From the Gavel Grille Facebook page -- "To all of our friends and loyal patrons, we are saddened to let you all know the Gavel Grille has closed. Although not for one reason or another, but mainly due to the area not being able to sustain a restaurant. We will be putting out a formal press release soon. However, we are in discussions with the building owners to do events in the very near future. We will still be catering, so drop us an email if you need anything of that nature. We will be corresponding more info soon."

(Originally published 5/14/13)

HUDSON FALLS -- This one might fool even Sherlock Holmes.

The Times Union's food blogger Steve Barnes today says the Gavel Grille, located in the former Washington County Courthouse here, "appears to be closed," citing an unnamed source.

Curious, since just a few days earlier, when a prospective customer said no one answered the phone but she wanted to make a reservation for a party of 11, co-owner/chef Scott Beale replied on Facebook, "No problem we will put you down Friday at 5 for11."

And, the business's Facebook page on Sunday made a point of saying "The Gavel is open from 12:00 to 7:00pm tonight for Mother's Day!"

Monday was its normal dark day. As of this morning (Tuesday), however, again no one answers the restaurant's phone. Apparently a lot of people have been trying to get through since a recorded message at the number says the mailbox is full and cannot accept any more messages. No mention of a closing is made on either Facebook or its web site.

The Gavel Grille has been open only since December. If it truly is closed, it will be the second time Beale and wife/business partner Jamie Shattuck Beale have closed a restaurant without notice. They abruptly shuttered their Grey Gelding in Saratoga Springs last August.

Perhaps they should avoid naming their next enterprise anything with a G in the name?

Go here for the region’s best local food & drinks events calendar.